Molly Brown Casserole

Comfort food from my childhood and a perennial top choice for my own children's birthday dinners.  A mid-20th century take on lasagna -- this mildly tangy casserole is easy to make and easy to like.  When I can't find crinkly noodles, I use mini lasagna noodles or even regular lasagna broken in pieces or, in a pinch, egg noodles.  But the pasta's ruffled edge is part of the pleasure of this dish and worth looking for.

In lightly salted boiling water, cook

1 (16-oz) package crinkly noodles

then drain and stir with

3 Tablespoons butter

in a 9"x13" pan.

Brown

1 lb. hamburger

Mix

1½ cup cottage cheese
8 ounces cream cheese
2/3 cup sour cream
¼ cup grated onion
1 teaspoon marjoram

and pour over noodles.  Mix browned hamburger with

2 cups tomato sauce
½ Tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
3 drops Tabasco sauce

and pour over cheese mixture. Bake at 350° for 40-45 minutes.

Wholegrain Spaghetti with Indescribably Good Sauce

The last of summer, first of fall here in Oregon, is tomato season and hours are spent saving the luscious round globes in paste balls and roasted tomatoes.  But it all pays off when the first day of Februrary rolls around and after a day of digging up bushes in the rain you can sit down to this powerful sauce after a quick half-hour in the kitchen.

I am not usually over-fond of whole-wheat pasta which can be too heavy for weak sauces.  But well-cooked (a little past al dente), well-salted, well-oiled, and then combined with a powerfully zestful sauce like this one they are marvelous.  Topped with  mozzarella, this dish is a little taste of heaven. 

PREREQUISITE RECIPES:

Tomato Paste Balls: (adapted from Joy of Cooking)

Roasted & Frozen Summer Tomatoes

Indescribably Good Sauce

Combine in a large sauce pan and begin to simmer

• 1 Tomato Paste Ball
• 1 qt. Roasted & Frozen Tomatoes
• a generous amount of fresh mushrooms, sliced.

Saute

• 1 large onion, diced
• 1 red or yellow bell pepper

in

• 1-2 Tablespoons olive oil

and add to the tomatoes and mushrooms along with

• 28 - 32 oz. diced canned tomatoes.

Simmer until the roasted tomatoes are completely thawed and the sauce begins to thicken.

Add

• 3 - 4 Tablespoons honey
• salt
• pepper.

Serve over whole wheat spaghetti noodles that have been cooked just beyond al dente in plenty of salted water, drained and then oiled with olive oil.  Top with a bit of mozzarella which will melt beautifully if the sauce and noodles are served nice and hot.

Orecchiette with Kale and Garbanzos + Delicata Squash + Home-bottled Grape Juice + Baked Pears

Kale?  anchovies?  Sounds like I'm trying to be deliberately unappetizing.  Let me just say - cocoa powder is not too tasty either on its own - but in combination with the right ingredients, WOW!  And that's what happens when you combine pasta, winter greens and dried beans.  I don't know why, I don't know how - but WOW!

The optional but "highly recommended" addition of tinned anchovies brings in an indescribably subtle and satisfying subtext. You don't have to tell people how incredibly nutritious this dish is, they'll absorb more of the nutrients anyway because they'll be loving every bite.

Do try this dish at least once and see for yourself. At my house, this is the never-fail, super-quick, fall-back cold weather dish when I forget to put the beans on to soak the night before and dinner is needed within the half-hour. By the time the pasta is al dente, the greens & beans are ready to go. And rather than groans and moans, this meal is met with cries of "Yum!" while at least one child sets aside a portion to take in her lunch the next day. I usually make this without the Parmesan. Sometimes without the anchovies. Sometimes I substitute sardines instead. It's good whichever way I try it.

Orecchiette, "little ears" or "mouse ears," are a beautifully rustic hand-made pasta - it looks like you could make them yourself by flattening a small marble of dough over the top of your thumb. I usually substitute shells or gnocchi when I can't find orechiette at the market - any midsize pasta that will cup satisfyingly around the garbanzo beans will do admirably.

Orecchiette with Kale and Garbanzos

adapted from my favorite cookbook author Andrea Chesman's
366 Delicious Ways to Cook Rice, Beans, and Grains

Chop

• 2 pounds kale (substitute broccoli rabe or collards, or a combination of greens

and then blanch in plenty of boiling salted water, until bright green and tender, 2 – 3 minutes. Drain and plunge into cold water to stop the cooking. Drain again.

In the boiling water, cook

• 1 pound orecchiette

until al dente.  Drain.

Meanwhile, chop

• 1 onion

and saute over medium heat in

• 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Add

• 6 anchovy fillets, mashed (optional, but highly recommended)
• 6 garlic cloves, minced

until the garlic is fragrant and golden, about 3 minutes.


Add to the pan the blanched kale and

• 3 cups cooked garbanzo beans (2 cans)

and cook until heated, about 4 minutes.  Season with

• salt (if needed)
• freshly ground black pepper

Combine pasta and vegetables.  If you wish you may sprinkle with

• 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

and toss well. 

Very satisfying with either (or both):

Baked Delicata Squash

(split lengthwise and seeds scooped out, baked cut-side down with about ½-inch of water in the baking pan.  350 degrees until soft.  About 30-45 minutes.)

Baked Pears

(left whole, pricked with a fork or knife tip, baked at 350 degrees until soft.  About an hour.  Cut in half and spooned directly from the toasted skin - which we don't eat - think of it as an all-natural candywrapper. You have never tasted a pear until you have eaten one baked - its flesh transformed into a delicate custard, its juices slightly carmelized - a richness that is at the same time light and subtly spicy.  People will wonder what magic ingredient you have used.  But it's pure pear, through and through.)

Quick and Cheesy Macaroni (week of Oct 26 - Nov 1)

Quick and Cheesy Macaroni 

adapted from Sam Stern's "Cauliflower Cheese" in Cooking up a Storm: "This is great comfort food. The sauce has to be thick and creamy with punchy seasoning and a really strong-tasting Cheddar. You want it smooth, so measure out the ingredients as exactly as you can." Rather than baking the sauce over steamed cauliflower, we simply poured it over leftover pasta spirals that had been reheated in a buttered dish in the oven at about 250 degrees. Very quick and very tasty. (We used whole milk - yes, organic - because we're weird that way.) 

Boil:

• macaroni or other mid-sized pasta

in

• salted water

for 12 minutes. Drain.

On low heat, melt in a saucepan:

• 4 Tablespoons butter

Gradually stir in:

• 1/4 cup flour

Continue stirring until the mix bubbles. Don't let it brown

Remove from heat. Whisk in:

• 2 cups milk

beating constantly so that the milk and flour mix together smoothly without lumps.

Return pan to heat. Continue cooking, stirring constantly until the sauce thickens, then simmer 2 to 3 more minutes, continuing to stir so it doesn't burn.

Add:

• 1 cup grated sharp Cheddar cheese
• 1 teaspoon dry mustard
• Juice of 1/2 lemon
• Salt and pepper

Return to the heat and stir for 1 minute. Pour over cooked pasta and mix together. (If you want, you may bake at 450 for 30 minutes.)

Penne with Italian Tomato, Mushroom and Eggplant Sauce + Assorted Fruit and Berry Gratin (week of Oct 5-11)

BEST Italian Mushroom and Eggplant Sauce

adapted from Not Your Mother's Slow Cooker Cookbook: "With its meaty texture, eggplant makes a wonderful vegetarian pasta sauce, which pairs well with ziti."

We used whole wheat penne.

Cut in half lengthwise and sprinkle with salt:

• 1-2 lbs. eggplant (globe or Japanese)

Drain in colander for 1/2 hour. Rinse. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Arrange eggplant and:

• 3-4 cloves of garlic

on an oiled baking sheet. Brush with olive oil and bake until tender (20 minutes). Let cool, then remove skin from eggplant and coarsley chop the pulp. Smash the garlic to squeeze cloves out of their skins.

In a mid-size skillet over medium heat, heat:

• 1/4 olive oil

Add and cook:

• 1 large onion (sweet or yellow), chopped fine

stirring a few times, until softened, about 5 minutes.

In a slow cooker, combine all the above with:

• 4 cups roma tomatoes, peeled and seeded (or one 28 oz. can crushed tomatoes)
• 1 tomato paste ball *(recipe below) (or one 6 oz. can tomato paste)
• 12 oz. fresh mushrooms, sliced
• 3 Tablespoons red cooking wine (or 2 T. grape juice & 1 T red wine vinegar)
• 1 Tablespoon chopped fresh oregano (or 1 & 1/2 teaspoons dried)

Stir. Cover and cook on LOW for 7 to 8 hours (HIGH for 3-1/2 to 4 hours).

During the last hour add:

• 3 Tablespoons fresh flat-leap parsley, minced
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

The sauce will hold on LOW for a few hours.

Italian Tomato Paste

adapted from The Joy of Cooking: "This flavorful paste is diluted in a little boiling water or stock and added to sauces and soups. Fine in spaghetti and noodle dishes, as a dressing for cooked vegetables or salads, and as an addition to salad dressings."

Hmm . . . at any rate it adds a delicious & savory depth when used in place of canned paste.

Wash and cut into slices:

• 1 & 1/2 pecks ripe Italian tomatoes (6 quarts)

Add:

• 1 large celery rib, cut up with some leaves
• 3/4 cup chopped onion
• 3 Tablespoons fresh herbs: basil, thyme, sweet marjoram, or oregano
• 3/4 teaspoon peppercorns
• 12 cloves
• 3 teaspoons salt
• 1 two-inch stick cinnamon
• 1 minced clove of garlic

Simmer these ingredients until the tomatoes are soft. Stir frequently. Put the vegetables through a fine sieve.

Simmer the pulp in an uncovered slow cooker. Stir frequently. When the pulp is thick and reduced by half, spread the paste to a depth of 1/2 inch on moist plates.

Cut into the paste to let air penetrate. Place the paste in a 200 degree oven to dry.

When the paste is dry enough, roll it into balls and dip in olive oil. Store refrigerated in airtight sterile jars--taking care to remove one at a time with a clean utensil as needed.

Berry & Autumn Fruit Gratin

adapted from True Blueberry: "This light and lovely gratin, a traditional French baked dish with a golden crust, is prepared with fromage blanc, the versative low-fat or fat-free creamy French-style fresh cheese that visually resembles a cross between sour cream and yogurt. The fluffy gratin topping is a cross between a meringue and a souffle."

What is fromage blanc? it sounds like a close cousin to yogurt cheese (directions below). This gratin is also good with a full 7 cups of fresh blueberries instead of the assortment of fruit.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Lightly butter an 8- or 9-inch square or oval baking dish with:

• 1 teaspoon unsalted butter, softened

and set aside.

In a large bowl, lightly whip with a whisk, until it is aerated and smooth (~1 minute):

• 1 & 1/2 cups yogurt cheese

Add, whisking until the mixture is smooth and fluffy:

• 6 Tablespoons sugar
• 1/3 cup heavy cream
• 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
• 2 large egg yolk
• 2 Tablespoons white flour

Set aside.

In glass bowl, combine:

• 2 large egg whites
• Pinch of salt

Beat with rotary beater until the mixture holds soft peaks. Do not overbeat. Gradually and gently fold the egg whites into the yogurt cheese until smoothly blended but still very airy. Set aside.

In a large bowl, combine:

• 4 cups fresh or frozen blueberries
• 2 cups fresh or frozen raspberries (or 1 cup raspberries & 1 cup chopped peaches or pears)
• 2 cups fresh black berries (frozen are too bland)

Place 2/3 cup of the fruit in a small bowl and set aside. To the remaining fruit, add:

• 3 Tablespoons of granulated sugar
• 1 Tablespoon fresh lemon juice

and stir to combine.

Transfer the fruit mixture to the baking dish. Spoon on the egg and cheese mixture, spreading it smoothly and evenly over the fruit. Bake in the center of the oven for 25 to 30 minutes, until the egg & cheese topping is puffy and nicely browned. Remove from the oven and sprinkle with

• 1 & 1/2 Tablespoon powdered sugar

Garnish with the reserved barries, placing them in the cracks of the crust. Dust with additional powderd sugar if desired and serve immediately.

Yogurt Cream Cheese

adapted from Nourishing Traditions: "Makes 5 cups of whey and 2 cups cream cheese. . . . .[Whey can be used] as a starter culture for lacto-fermented vegetables and fruits, for soaking grains and as a starter for many [mild] beverages."

Our neighbor Delbert Powell who passed away last winter showed me how to make this cheese to serve with a Lebanese bean recipe called facula. This tangy cheese is also good spread on a chewy slice of sourdough with a fresh salsa or pico de gallo spooned over the top.

Line a large strainer set over a bowl with a square of clean cheesecloth.

Pour in:

• 2 quarts of yogurt

and cover with a clean dishcloth and let stand at room temperature for several hours. The whey will run into the bowl and the milk solids will stay in the strainer.

Tie up the cheesecloth with the milk solids inside, being careful not to squeeze. (I use a clean rubber band.) Tie the sack to a wooden spoon placed across the top of a pitcher or bowl so that more whey can drip out. (I slide the handle of a wooden spoon through the rubber band.)

When the bag stops dripping, the cheese is ready. Store whey in an airtight and sterile mason jar and cream cheese in a covered glass container. Refrigerated, the cream cheese keeps for about 1 month and the whey for about 6 months.